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Before the COVID-19 pandemic, Ban Tad Thong was a unique and charming street. It was a blend of old-fashioned car accessory shops and long-standing restaurants, where university alumni could reminisce about their time at Chulalongkorn University. These small businesses, often run by kind and hardworking elderly shopkeepers, formed a strong cultural and emotional bond with the community. While Chulalongkorn University is known for its academic reputation, I would argue that these old restaurants and small shops have contributed more to the happiness and fondness associated with the university than the often pretentious academic institutions that aggressively promote themselves.
However, after COVID-19, as the economy recovered and tourists flooded back, Ban Tad Thong underwent a drastic transformation. Once a quiet and peaceful street, it became filled with flashy new facades and an overwhelming number of Chinese-themed posters. Mala restaurants, in particular, have taken over, with more than 15–20 establishments opening up. Alongside this, an increasing number of pubs, bars, and high-end restaurants have emerged. On weekends, Bangkok authorities estimate that over fifty thousand visitors flock to the area. Chulalongkorn University profits immensely from this economic boom—but at what cost?
Interestingly, Time Out once called Ban Tad Thong “the world’s 14th coolest street,” and Nation Thailand labeled it “Chula–Bantadthong–Sam Yan–Foodies’ Paradise.” However, these claims now seem questionable. For context, these accolades were published over a year ago, and the reality of Ban Tad Thong today tells a different story—one of commercialization, displacement, and lost cultural heritage. I aim to update the true state of the street.
Recently, I heard a troubling rumor that Jay Bow, the owner of a famous chicken rice shop that has been on Ban Tad Thong for 25 years, would soon be leaving. When I asked her, she confirmed it. The skyrocketing rent and the shifting environment, now heavily reliant on influencers and TikTok trends rather than a loyal local student base, have made it impossible for her to stay. She expressed her deep frustration with these changes and announced her decision to move.
When I shared my conversation with her on social media, it quickly went viral, even making its way to Thailand’s mainstream media. Although I am no stranger to backlash for speaking out against authority, this time there was overwhelming public consensus. Many people recognize the dramatic and negative changes happening to Ban Tad Thong, driven by greed rather than quality or sustainability. The university came under widespread criticism for allowing this transformation.
It is important to note that Chulalongkorn University did not create Ban Tad Thong’s original charm. In fact, the university had long planned to demolish the area and replace it with mega-buildings and shopping complexes. The COVID-19 pandemic delayed these plans. Over time, many small restaurants and shops—many of which had previously been displaced from other university-owned land that was converted into condominiums or malls—found refuge on Ban Tad Thong, inadvertently turning it into a vibrant food street. This organic development led many to call Ban Tad Thong the “second Chinatown.” The university cannot claim credit for this success—it was the resilience of the local business owners and the students who supported them that made it thrive.
Unfortunately, as the street gained popularity, predatory business interests saw an opportunity. Chinese investors, along with the university itself, saw the potential for profit. Rental prices skyrocketed, with some shop spaces now costing between 50,000 and 100,000 baht per month. While the university claims that it only increases rent by 5–10% annually, the fierce competition has made it impossible for small local businesses to survive. The old tenants are not just competing with new Thai businesses—they are battling aggressive Chinese business interests that dominate the market.
As a result, Ban Tad Thong is no longer a place of innovative and beloved restaurants—it has become a playground for speculative real estate. Many new renters sign contracts with higher rent, only to sublease the property for even more money before leaving. This cycle of speculation drives out long-standing businesses, erasing the street’s original character. Meanwhile, the environmental toll is severe. The canals behind Ban Tad Thong have become too polluted to clean, with an unsustainable number of restaurants dumping waste into them. Chulalongkorn University frequently boasts about its commitment to the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), but this situation contradicts their claims. It is shameful that their pursuit of profit has led to environmental degradation and harmed the surrounding community.
Even mainstream media outlets, such as Krungthep Turakij, have criticized the university’s role in Ban Tad Thong’s decline. They have called for a 50% reduction in rent and highlighted the university’s failure to maintain the area responsibly. With luxury restaurants taking over, old shops fading, and tourists losing interest, the street’s charm is disappearing. If nothing changes, Ban Tad Thong will continue to decline.
What Chulalongkorn University Must Do
The current administration, led by a professor from the Faculty of Commerce and Accountancy, must take responsibility and take corrective action. The university cannot wait for external forces to improve the situation—it must actively work to restore what has been lost. Here are a few proposals:
Designate Protected Zones for Old Restaurants – Create specific areas where old restaurants can return with affordable rent and secure contracts that prohibit subleasing. These restaurants should be celebrated as part of the university’s cultural heritage, with active promotion to honor their contributions to student life and the community.
Transform Parts of the Street into Cultural Spaces – Instead of filling every inch of the street with restaurants, allocate areas for museums showcasing the history of Ban Tad Thong, public libraries, small theaters, and art spaces. These initiatives should be supported by subsidies and university funding to ensure accessibility.
Support Affordable Student Housing – With rising living costs, students are struggling to afford expensive accommodations. The university should partner with local businesses and property owners to develop affordable hostels and rental spaces for students. This would allow students to live near campus while also supporting small local businesses.
These are just a few ideas to reverse Ban Tad Thong’s decline and restore its unique identity. There are many opportunities to do good and correct past mistakes. The public now sees what is happening—Chulalongkorn University must recognize this as an opportunity to learn from its failures and take action to ensure that Ban Tad Thong thrives again in a way that is sustainable and beneficial to society.